Friday, July 31, 2009


The introduction of appliques to your digitizing projects can reap both creative and practical rewards. The use of appliques can allow you to reduce the stitch count of your designs by as much as 80%. This will, of course, reduce the sewing time by almost as much, once you factor in the extra time necessary to place and tack down the applique or appliques.
Another benefit of using appliques, especially in large designs, is that it can be used to replace large areas of fill stitches, which can tend to make the design area stiff and uncomfortable to wear.
Digitizing
If your software has an automatic applique function (as in KPD Compositions Pro), the following steps will be added for you. First a placement line (running stitch)is digitized and followed by a stop code or color change. This will stop the design so that you can lay down the applique. Next a tack down stitch (either a zig zag or running stitch) is digitized so that the applique will be secured to the base fabric and then the applique is finished off with either a zig zag or satin stitch.
Techniques
There are a few different ways to cut out the appliques, and the choice of technique is based upon the amount of designs in the job order and the frequency that you use appliques in your designs.
Hand-cut
Hand cutting your designs is the most labor intensive and is a practical alternative only for very small jobs or samples or in an emergency when there is no time to send out the fabric to be cut. There are two methods commonly used, template and cutting on the machine. To create a template for your applique, hoop a light cardboard on you machine and sew out the applique placement line on the cardboard. You can then cut along the perforations and use this template to trace out and cut your appliques. You may also choose to cut the appliques in the hoop. To do this, digitize your tack down stitch inside the middle of the finishing satin stitch. Place a square of appliques fabric large enough to cover the entire appliqued area, and stitch it down. The remove the hoop from the machine and use a pair of applique scissors, cut along the outside edge of the applique, then place the hoop back on the machine and resume sewing.
CAD Cut
If you do a lot of applique work you might want to invest in a CAD cutter to use to cut them in-house. You can export a cut file from your software to run the machine and to assure that the applique is going to fit in your design perfectly.
Laser or water-jet cut
If you use appliques infrequently it would probably be best to send your digitized file to an applique cutting facility, the turn around time for this service can be as quick as 24-48 hours.
If your applique are large enough you might want to invest in a laser cutter or a beam laser. The advantage of a beam laser is that it allows you to cut either single or multiple appliques on the embroidery machine, which expedites the entire process.

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